Between the last part of the southern Tuscan coast and the town of Talamone, in the heart of the Maremma area around Grosseto, a mount stands, such as Mount Olympus, home to the Gods in ancient Greece, allowing the eye to enjoy the view of a dream, truly divine location, thanks to the beauty of the places nearby. All of it in a mix of relaxation and fantastic landscapes, colorful nuances and extraordinary vistas.
Welcome to the Argentario area, which is named right after the homonymous promontory.
Mount Argentario, which is 635 metres high above sea level, looks like an island at first glance. However, it is connected to the mainland by two long and twisting sand strips bordering, in the inside, a lagoon and several suggestive small beaches where to admire the exceptional, unique fascination of the Tuscan landscape.
A Unique Panorama
Everytime it happens to describe the Argentario area the first thought goes to the two long and sandy land strips that link the promontory to the mainland. They are called tomboli, a term forged to define these ground formations, typical of the areas of both Tuscany and the Lazio region. These tomboli della Giannella and della Feniglia are really particularly amazing and show the uniqueness of this area, from the bright sands of the seafronts to the lush mediterranean scrub with the shadows of the pine thickets giving shelter from sunlight, and inspiring calmness and relaxation. Along the coast the jagged walls and craggy cliffs leave room every now and then to small beaches, more difficult to reach but true gems of the area, favoring boat excursions, snorkeling and scuba diving and making it possible to admire the huge variety of the local plant and animal sealife, as well as the charming breathtaking caves, shallows and seafloors.
Here it is possible to practice a lot of leisure activities such as, besides scuba diving, trekking on the numerous paths worming their way from the seafront to the inland, enjoying the view of astonishing places tucked away in the natural local landscape, proceeding by foot or, for the bold ones, by mountain bike in a totally safe and suggestive journey in the Tuscan nature. The variety of local wildlife also lets visitors do birdwatching, especially when it comes to admire the wonderful flamingos of the Orbetello sanctuary, which are the real star attractions of the area.
Let’s Take a Dive in the Unspoilt Nature
The Argentario area hinges on two renowned holiday destinations: the villages of Porto Santo Stefano and Porto Ercole.
Both of Etruscan origin, the two villages later expanded and developed in ancient Roman times, eventually becoming peculiar port and fishing centres, very relevant also for trading reasons and from a strategic and defensive point of view. Further on they fell under the control of Sienna, between the 14th and the 16th century, before the subsequent Spanish domination.
Throughout the 20th century they became important tourist destinations, offering their visitors countless amusement occasions with the lovely Maremma’s coastal panorama in the background.
Porto Santo Stefano distinguishes itself because of its Lungomare dei Navigatori (literally The Sailor Seafront), which leads to the small Pillarella port. The Piazza dei Rioni square is placed on the opposite side of the town. Being its true core, here it is possible to enjoy local lifestyles and habits, with lunch, dinner and aperitif events available in the numerous bars and restaurants having a nice terrace overlooking the sea.
Porto Ercole is a hamlet just five kilometres far from Porto Santo Stefano. It is pretty similar to it when it comes to its core characteristics. The love for the art of fishing can be clearly sensed in the air, with the typical local boatyards placed at the end of the seafront.
Small streets, alleys and squares teeming with shops and boutiques full of local products are bordered and protected by fortified walls, typical of the area, recalling in their shape the numerous coastal towers, which were used in the past as sighting outposts to spot potential invaders from the sea. Among them, one of the most famous is the square-shaped Torre dell’Avvoltore (the Vulture Tower), with a fenced perimeter around it, as well as the Torre Ciana, built under the domination of the Sienna rulers and later fortified by the Spanish government and, last but not least, the hexagon-shaped Torre delle Cannelle which was built back in the 15th century. Just one century after its building the Spanish rulers favored the building of several fortresses, such as Forte Filippo ad Forte Stella, still perfectly intact today.
It is not possible not to mention that, in Porto Ercole’s cemetery, rests the great painter Michelangelo Merisi, known as Il Caravaggio, who died on July 18th 1610 right in town.
The Orbetello Lagoon
As a precious pearl placed between two sandy strips six kilometres long each, i.e. the tombolo della Feniglia and tombolo della Giannella already mentioned above, the Orbetello lagoon is imbued with a truly exceptional natural and naturalistic charm indeed.
Its beaches are mainly long and sandy which make it ideal for visitors to spend their time there, but there is also the chance to visit rocky hills and cliffs, especially northwards, near the town of Talamone.
In the lagoon there also is a WWF oasis which is really famous worldwide and happens to be a real paradise for a lot of animal species, mainly birds such as herons, cormorans and fishing hawks, as well as flamingos, gathering here because the lagoon is right in the middle of their migratory routes. The natural sanctuary, with its huge smorgasbord of botanical species, can be visited by following three different itineraries: three paths equipped on purpose and a bicycle path, which allow visitors to admire majestic panoramas and the interesting local wildlife, being carried away by the dreaming atmospheres the lagoon inspires, especially at sunset.
The Cala del Gesso Beach
Considered one of the most beautiful and charming beaches of all the Argentario area, the Cala del Gesso beach preserves its original natural characteristics untouched, being the human influence almost totally absent there.
It spreads westwards with a floor of small and smooth pebbles and, although not so easily reachable as the other marvelous beaches of the area, it inspires relaxing feelings thanks to its privacy, as if it were a half-hidden gem in the splendid surrounding landscape.
Its water is bright and crystal clear, giving an even more pronounced optical illusion magnified by the clearness and the brilliance of the pebbles of its floor. The name Cala del Gesso (literally the Chalk Small Beach) comes from the white colour of chalk, a material which in the past was extracted abundantly in the caves nearby, not exploited anymore nowadays. The Argentarola islet, also known as the Argentino islet back in the days, stands right near the beach, hiding a fascinating underwater cave in the inside. The Grotta delle Pumadorine (the Tomato Cave) was named after the presence of the numerous lobsters covering the walls of the cave, recalling the tomatoes peasants used to hang from the ceiling after collecting them in the fields.
The Spiaggia delle Cannelle Beach
Facing directly the Argentario from the Giglio island, one of the Tuscan islands whose wonders such as those of the Elba island are described here, the Spiaggia delle Cannelle (the Cannelle Beach) is 100 kilometres long and formed by fine sand, showing white-pearl nuances. The sea is of a crystal-clear blue tone with emerald green nuances, where it is possible to admire suggestive small sea wildlife while snorkeling.
Very well equipped both at a restaurant and at an entertainment level, the beach is definitely a safe place to bathe calmly near the shore, in its not deep water, which makes it ideal for families with kids to enjoy. Not far from it, the Spiaggia delle Caldane can be visited too. Less extended than the Spiaggia delle Cannelle, this beach is more secluded and less crowded and can be reached only by boat or by foot after a 15-minute walk.
The Spiaggia della Cacciarella Beach
In the Porto Santo Stefano municipality, the Spiaggia della Cacciarella is characterised by being a naturalistic gem set in a splendid cove bordered by lateral cliffs teeming with typical local wildlife and plantlife. The color of its water is light blue with emerald-green shiny reflections, enhancing the vista of the sandy beach that, on its eastern side, shows its visitors the lovely Grotta del Turco (The Turk’s Cave). According to history, it witnessed the last moments of a Turkish warrior but, according to the legend, it was the scene of the escape of a boat of local fishers from the attack of Saracen pirates.
A tower overlooks the beach. It was originally known as “Scacciadiavoli” (literally Scaredevil), a nickname given to Aydin Rais from Izmir, one of the pirates who tarnished himself of incursions and raids along the coast.
Charm and History Intertwined
Recalling the historical facts regarding this area, so rich in charm, it is not possible to forget historical exemplars of great relevance, dating back to the Roman civilization and then, further on, to the Spanish domination during the Renaissance.
The Ancient Roman Town of Cosa
In the area where Orbetello stands today there once was the Roman town of Cosa, founded in 273 B.C. and now the seat of an important archaeological site that gives visitors the opportunity to walk the streets once core of the life of the town, where it is also possible to observe numerous finds. Between the foundations and the ruins of houses and defensive walls which really are thousands years old, tourists can enjoy the view of the thermal baths, with the remaining parts of the pillars and the central bath, the Quintus Flavius villa, today a museum containing finds, relics and decorations from the ancient Roman times, the forum, centre of the town’s life and the acropolis, on the uppest place of the area, where to admire the ruins of the temple dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. This temple used to be the biggest building of Cosa, still suggestive nowadays as well as the breathtaking surrounding landscape.
Talamone’s Fortress
Talamone’s Fortress, placed in the homonymous town on the northern part of the coast, was built in the 14th century by Sienna’s rulers, who promoted the development of the whole area which proved itself useful to contrast the great commercial power of the maritime republics of Pisa and Florence. It is square-shaped and fortified by towers placed in the corners overlooking the sea. The fortress is also formed by a majestic central castle, the so-called Maschio, and had the task of protecting the town even though it experienced frequent raids by Saracen pirates. These episodes showed the urgent need for the fortress to be fortified more massively across the 15th and 16th centuries, thanks to the efforts by the new Spanish rulers.
The Spanish Stronghold
The Spanish Stronghold is an excellent exemplar of the Hispanic military architectural design and was built during the 17th century under the Spanish domination of the whole area, which utterly became a Spanish district.
Placed in Porto Santo Stefano and easy to reach in a few minutes walk from the Piazza dei Rioni square, the fortress is square-shaped and erected in a dominant position on the coast.
A big yard bordered by the garrison rooms is placed right after the main entrance, with a big tank in the middle and two terraces once used to place the cannons in order to defend the town.
The Tarot Garden
In Capalbio it is possible to visit a true, one-of-a-kind wonder. The Tarot Garden, designed by the French artist Niki de Saint Phalle, is a private garden open to visitors for long periods during the year, where reality and magic intertwine among colors, nuances and glass-covered sculptures, as well as mirrors and refined ceramic works to represent the world of tarots, the famous cards able to answer questions about the present and to foretell the future. This dreaming atmosphere is imbued with the fascination and intrigue inspired by these divinatory cards, which represent the Major Arcana, and spark the fantasy both of children and adults. By designing the works included in the garden, conceived as if they were real living creatures, the French artist took inspiration from the artistic influence of Antoni Gaudì, Pablo Picasso, Wassily Kandinsky and Henri Matisse. A fantastic, unique place where to let yourselves be carried away, letting reality and magic meet each other in a suspended and suggestive new universe.
From the natural beauties to the historical ones, from the crystal-clear blue water with emerald-green nuances of a fascinating sea to the shiny brightness of beaches and cliffs, from the majestic fortresses to the magical atmospheres of unique, unspoilt locations.
All of this has a name: it is the Argentario area, a place not to be missed, a place where, undoubtedly, you want to choose the luxury villa of your dreams.
